Checking the serial number of your fabric panel will let you know which mesh manufacturer you have on your frame. A serial number that begins with 1 is a SEFAR PET 1500 mesh panel. A number 3 is a Murakami Smartmesh panel. A number 5 is a SAATI Hi-Tex/Hi-R panel. Click the link below to download the how to stretch and tension chart for your brand. 

• Murakami Smartmesh 
• SEFAR PET 1500 
• SAATI Hi-Tex/Hi-R   

We also have a full color wall chart available for you to post in your shop., This page shows the shur-loc® color code system for easy reference. 

• Printable shur-loc® Color Chart

One of the most overlooked tools in many shops is the frames and mesh that is used to print most jobs. Whether someone has invested thousands in roller frames or is still using wooden frames with 10N fabrics on them, almost everyone will agree that good quality prints start with consistent screens. With a shur-loc® mesh panel, we precision cut the shape of the mesh to match the optimal tension for the mesh that is being used. This means perfect softening, tight corners and just enough deflection curve built into the mesh to keep that frame performing at its best for as long as possible. Simply put, shur-loc® panels go on faster, easier and last longer than any other mesh system on the planet. This means the best possible prints, longer press times and more money in pocket.

While panels may look more expensive when you compare them to mesh by the yard, there are quite a few other costs associated with bolt mesh that most users forget about. When traditionally stretching, users need locking strips, mesh clips, special tools, wrenches and quite a bit of wasted mesh. It’s also wise to factor in the additional time and shipping costs of bolt mesh verses panels as well. Your stretching department can also tension frames in a faction of the time that it takes with bolt mesh. Once you add up all the factors, that “more expensive” panel doesn’t cost so much more than bolt mesh.

One of the biggest mistakes printers can make is falling into the ‘maximum tension’ trap. More tension does not always equal better prints. Optimal tension for the mesh you are using will give you better prints. This is the theory that is used to design every shur-loc® fabric panel. When mesh is over-tension, the threads quickly lose their elasticity and begin to break down. Keeping mesh at the proper tension level will help you avoid this premature breakage.

The simple answer to this is, no. Mesh comes in many different counts and thread diameters. Each one of these has been given a specific tension range by the manufacturer to perform at its optimal level. Consulting a tension chart is the best way to determine exactly what tension the mesh you are using should be tensioned to.

Over tensioning mesh will lead to the mesh breaking down faster than usual. This would lead to the threads losing their elasticity and the knuckles of the mesh breaking down prematurely. Prints will lose their definition faster and issues like moire and ghosting could become an issue.

Under tensioning mesh will produce many issues with the quality of prints. The mesh is designed to be opened a certain amount to allow inks to pass through and be applied to the garment. If the mesh is under tensioned, these openings will not be large enough and not enough ink will pass through. This is the common problem that many users face with static (or stretch and glue) frames. Low tensions usually require increased off-contact and higher squeegee pressures. Both of these can lead to lower quality, inconsistent prints.

There are a number of chemicals that should never be used with the original shur-loc® panels. Most of these have active ingredients that include: “tones” like Acetone or ketone, MEK, naphthas, esters, ethers or toluene. These chemicals attach the PVC strips on the edge of the panel and can cause them to soften or swell. Once this happens, the adhesive inside the panel may fail, causing the mesh to release.

It’s also important to watch for alkaline being left on the mesh. Many dehazers and degreasers contain alkaline to help clean the mesh more efficiently. These types of cleaners will leave a white residue on the mesh that will slowly cause pinholes to develop in the panel. Once the threads becomes weak enough, they will break. You can avoid this by lightly spraying down your mesh with a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water.

If your shop environment requires the use of chemicals like the ones listed above, we highly recommend our Endurance Series Fabric Panels.

White mesh has not been dyed. Yellow, Amber or Orange colored meshes have been dyed. The dye in the colored mesh prevents light from travelling through the threads as easily while exposing. White mesh can be exposed more easily with a weaker light source, but may not have the same stencil edge quality as an equivalent yellow mesh. The darker the dye color, the longer the mesh will take to expose. The dye colors may vary by brand, but the end result is the same for each of them.

Generally, white mesh is used on lower mesh counts with thicker thread diameters. Yellow mesh is more commonly found in higher thread counts and thinner thread diameters. Mesh counts under 110 are usually found only in white. Mesh counts from 110 to 200 are often found in both white and yellow. From 230 and above, most meshes are only available in a dyed coloring.

For the most part, either white or yellow mesh will print well for most users. The question of which one is right for you could be as simple as looking at the job you are doing and deciding which one will work best for your needs. Either way, shur-loc® has a vast selection to fit every need.

When you first see a shur-loc® Fabric Panel, you might be a bit confused on how to tell the difference between all the numbers. We make this easy by identifying each panel in a number of ways. Knowing what to look for makes choosing the perfect mesh for the job easy.

A large amount of information is contained in a very small area of the fabric panel. Located in the corner, you will see a series of stamps that help you identify the mesh and size of your panel. The first stamp contains the frame size, style and mesh count. In the image above, this would be a 355 mesh for a 23×31 M3 frame. The 355 part of the mesh indicates that there are 355 threads per inch in this mesh. The second number identifies the thread diameter of each thread. The diameter of the thread is measured in microns. In the image above, they used a 34 micron thread to weave a 355 thread per inch mesh fabric. If you need a larger opening, or better coverage, you could try a 31 micron thread in the same mesh count. This will increase the opening of your mesh almost 10%. The thread diameter also dictates the amount of tension the mesh will take. The thicker the thread, the higher the tension, based on the threads per inch. Many mesh counts have several thread diameter options.

The second line contains the serial number of the panel, which tells us what mesh is used, when the panel was made and the roll of mesh that used to make it.